,

Homemade Laundry Detergent

Save money, make your own laundry detergent!

We don’t mess around with laundry in this house, as I’m sure anyone who has kids, does yardwork, sweats, cooks, eats or…you know…experiences any aspect of everyday life can understand. For that reason, I was honestly hesitant to venture into making my own laundry detergent because I’m not a fan of wasting money on something that doesn’t work.  

Therefore, I settled on a formula that consisted of very few components, most of which I already had in my arsenal and had proven themselves as effective and efficient cleaners.

But enough about me, let’s get to why you’re here.

Ingredients

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: Just because an ingredient is organic or naturally occurring doesn’t necessarily mean it is non-toxic. No laundry detergent, homemade or store bought, should EVER be ingested, inhaled, or used topically. Always keep laundry detergent safely stored and out of reach of children or pets. While I’ve done my own research on all the components below, know that they are all powerful cleaning agents and it is each person’s responsibility to research for themselves and determine their comfort level when using these products in the home.

Borax: (not to be confused with the more abrasive Boric Acid) is a naturally occurring mineral called disodium tetraborate. Considered an extremely powerful cleaning agent, it is generally used in laundry to fight stains, whiten clothes, and reduce odor. It’s important to note that borax can lead to irritation of the skin if used topically and should never be ingested. It should always be diluted in water and rinsed properly from clothes to avoid irritation to the skin.

Washing soda: Also known as sodium carbonate, washing soda is strikingly similar to baking soda but should not be confused for one another.  Washing soda is used to soften the water, allowing the cleaning agents to properly lift dirt and other particles from clothes. As a double whammy, it also fights stains due to its low pH (alkaline substance). Like borax, it can cause irritation to the skin and should not be ingested.

Castile bar soap: Castile soap is a plant or vegetable-based soap also containing lye, making it an effective detergent. I like to use a bar of soap which is already scented with natural oils (either lavender, tea tree or rose) to add a hint of fragrance. You have the option to add a few drops of essential oils yourself, but beware adding essential oils to any powdered cleaners. It is amazingly easy to add too much oil and create unwanted clumps.

Pro Tip: Moisture is your enemy when it comes to storing powdered laundry detergent; it will create hard clumps that will not break down easily in your laundry load and will possibly leave white residue on your clothes. Once detergent has become clumpy, it is best to discard it. To avoid wasting your detergent, I strongly recommend storing it in an airtight container. Don’t scoop your detergent with wet hands or allow droplets of any liquid to enter the jar.

The Ratio

The glass jar pictured above has a 2 liter capacity. If you have a different size jar, pay attention to the ratio of the ingredients instead of the specific amounts.

3 cups borax (2 parts)

3 cups washing soda (2 parts)

1.5 cups grated castile soap (1 part)

The Process

Grated castile soap
  1. Grate your bar soap with the small grating option on a box grater. You can use the regular grater from your kitchen since the soap will wash right off.
  2. Measure and carefully add all ingredients to an air-tight jar. It is good practice to either wear gloves or immediately wash your hands well after mixing to avoid any skin irritation.
  3. Close the jar and shake the hell out of it; you obviously want all the ingredients to thoroughly mix. The grated soap can sometimes stick together so be sure to shake it well.
  4. That’s it! Store in a dry place near your laundry (away from children or pets)

To Use

Depending on the soil level, add between 3 tbsp- ¼ cup of laundry detergent to each load. The ingredients will work with any water temperature, though borax tends to work better with hot/ warm water. I tend to use cold water to save on energy but will use warm water on heavier or dirtier loads.

Happy cleaning!

/by

Organic Candle Making

It’s amazing to think there was a time when candles weren’t just used to fill your room with a lovely aroma, but were actually quite necessary to light your home once the sun went down. The art of candle making was a quintessential part of our homesteading past for this very reason. These days, making candles may not hold the same necessity, but is still a creative way to produce a useful and therapeutic tool. The ingredients and instructions below are meant to make a 100% organic candle, but the process can work for a wide range of ingredients.

Before getting started, you’ll need to assemble your supplies:

  • Organic Soy Wax
  • Container for Candle OR Candle Mold
  • Natural Fiber Wick (Use a metal base if making a container candle)
  • Clothespin or Pencil (for wick placement)
  • Double Boiler (Small saucepan and pouring pot)
  • Wax Thermometer
  • Essential Oil for Aroma (Optional)
  • Natural Dye for Color (Optional)
  • Embellishments (Optional)

I’ve added a few notes on the supplies listed above to further clarify each item and provide alternative options:

Wax

Though there are many options to use for wax, I like using soy wax over paraffin wax because 100% vegan and easy to produce. It also has a nice, clean, white color making it a great canvas. Other wax options include beeswax, paraffin and gel wax. Using a different wax shouldn’t change the process or other ingredients. The amount of wax you will need is completely dependent on the size of container you use. Ill talk about containers below.

Natural Fiber Wick

These can be found at any hobby store. Though some synthetic options exist, I like using natural fiber to keep in line with our organic candle. You also have the option to use wood wicks, which look like thin flat reeds. They provide a great amount of light along with a nice crackling sound. It’s like having an indoor campfire.

Candle Container or Mold

The fun thing about making candles is you can make them out of so many things! Of course, you want to make sure your container can handle the heat of the candle (don’t use very thin glass or cheap plastic), but there are so many different options! Sometimes I like to just wander around Goodwill looking at different glasses/pottery for sale. Candle molds are also easy to find at hobby stores or online. Generally, they sit upside down and provide a hole in the bottom for the wick to go through. You can spray them first to make the candle pop out more easily, but I honestly don’t think that’s necessary. I find candles pop out just fine on their own.

Double Boiler

This may seem intimidating but it’s really quite simple. That said, just know that once you use an item for candle making, it is now ONLY to be used for candles because it’s exceedingly difficult to completely remove wax from a surface. I have a small saucepan and pouring pot that are dedicated to nothing but candles and other wax products like salves. Saucepans are obviously easy to find, but pouring pots can be found at hobby stores or online. To use a double boiler, fill the saucepan about ¼ of the way full with water. Then place the pouring pot into the center of the saucepan. This will create a ring of water around the pouring pot. Then turn on the stove to medium/low heat and allow the water to simmer. You want to make sure that the water does not come up to the top of the saucepan when it starts to simmer. If it does, reduce the heat or pour out a bit of the water.

Wax Thermometer

This is especially important!! Why? Because if you add your dyes and scents to the wax at too high a temperature, it will burn them off, leaving your candle with no smell or pretty color. You can use any type of cooking thermometer for this. I prefer a digital readout to ensure I know exactly the temp of the wax. As mentioned before, once you use a thermometer for melted wax, it is now ONLY used for wax.

Aroma/Color/Embellishments

I put these together because they are all optional. You can find plenty of different options for these items at a hobby store, or get creative and use different things from around your house.

–Aroma: I love using essential oils for the candle’s aroma because I can create my own unique blends of naturally derived scents. You could also use up old perfume or cologne, or purchase scents specifically made for candle making.

–Color: There are plenty of candle dyes available, but you can create color through items like processed flower petals or old makeup. Sometimes adding no dye at all looks good too.

–Embellishment: This is a physical item that is added to the candle to enhance its appearance. For example, you can add shells to the bottom of your glass container before adding blue, gel wax to make your candle look like the ocean, or add dried, crushed rose petals to the top rim of your candle to make it look a luxurious spa candle. Get creative!

Process

Phew, I know that was a lot of information, but it will come together quite beautifully.

  1. Heat your double boiler on the stove to medium/low heat and add your desired amount of wax. It will take a couple minutes for the wax to melt completely. You can stir the wax around with a wooden stick (chopsticks or clean twigs from outside will do) or just swirl the pouring pot with your hand (my preferred method).

2. Using your thermometer, heat the wax until it hits about 150 degrees. This will ensure that the wax has melted and mixed thoroughly before moving onto the next step.

3. Once your wax has hit 150 degrees, give it a good stir or swirl, and set aside to cool slightly.

4. Monitor the wax until it has cooled to 130 degrees, then add your fragrance and color dye. The amount added will completely depend on how strong you want the aroma and color. You can always add more, so start conservatively and continue to add little by little. Whatever the melted wax smells like is how your candle will smell while it’s burning.

5. When you’re happy with your wax, very slowly pour it into your container. You have the option to add the wick to the container first, but it never stays exactly in place, so I tend to just add after I’ve poured the wax. Use your clothespin to secure the wick in the middle of the candle, with the metal base of the wick resting on the bottom of the container.

6. If using a candle mold, you absolutely need to put the wick into your mold before pouring your wax. Make sure the wick comes well through the opening at the bottom, and up through the hole in the top. You can wrap the wick at the top around a pencil or chopstick to hold it in the center of your candle.

7. If you’re adding embellishments to the top of your container candle, wait until the wax is cool enough to see a light ring of hardened wax around the perimeter. You can then slowly drop your embellishments into place. They might sink slightly but should stay close to the surface. If they drop well below the surface, wait another minute or two before adding more. Avoid messing with the embellishments once you’ve placed them, it could disturb the wax finished surface.

Embellishments of dried lavender buds

8. Allow at least 4 hours for the candle to fully harden before cutting the wick or using the candle.

9. When ready, cut the wick off at about 1 cm above the surface of the wax.

You’re done! Enjoy your organic homemade candle!

/by
,

Dandelion Infused Oil

It’s the most wonderful time of year… Spring has sprung, the rain has come, and little yellow flowers are popping up all over the yard. That’s right, it’s time for the Dandelions.

Dandelions are among the lovely weeds that are not only edible, but extremely nutritious from root to flower. While the root and leaves can be used for a million different things, here we will focus on harvesting the flowers and infusing them into an oil to use topically (not meant for ingestion). Along with containing powerful antioxidants, dandelion flowers have anti-inflammatory and mild pain-relieving properties, making them great for massage oils or therapy salves.

First, its important to note that there are a few flowers and weeds that resemble Dandelions, so it’s imperative to be able to accurately identify them. Notice the shapes of the leaves and flowers in the picture below:

Did you know: the yellow flowers are the ones you want to pick but what about those white, wispy flowers that you blow on to make a wish? They are actually one and the same! The flowers start out being yellow, but will turn into the wispy wish makers once they’re ready to seed. Be sure to harvest the yellow flowers before they have gone to seed.

Ok, so now you’ve identified the correct plant, and the flowers to pick. Time to start harvesting. You will want to remove the full flower blossom from the stem, keeping the base of the flower intact. I like to place my fingers all the way around the flower (like an arcade claw game), and gently pull up. If part of them stem comes out with the flower, no worries. You’ll just need to go through and remove the stems before drying them.

Once you have all your flowers removed from their stems, it’s good practice to wash them of bugs and any other debris. Always be sure to pick flowers that are free from harsh pesticides. Avoid areas you’re unsure about; any possible chemicals could make their way into your oil. Once the flowers have been washed, I like to get them as dry as possible by using a salad spinner. The flowers will stay intact and most of the excess water will be removed. This will also help to speed up the dehydration process.

Now that you have clean, dry flowers, it’s time to dehydrate them. If you don’t have a legitimate dehydrator, this is a simple process that can be done a couple ways:

  1. Spread them out on a baking pan and place in direct sun for at least 2-3 days or until they have fully dried and become crispy. You will want to bring them in at night or if it becomes windy.
  2. Place flowers on a baking pan and put in the oven for 2-3 hours. You will want to use a VERY low temperature as to not burn them. I generally leave it at about 160 degrees. Shake the pan every 45 mins or so to loosen the flowers and move them around.

Once dried, your dandelion flowers will shrink to about 1/3 their original size. It’s important to keep this in mind while harvesting, depending on how much oil you want to make.

You can now pack down your dried flowers into a canning jar, filling it about 3/4th of the way full. Then pour your carrier oil of choice over the flowers, filling until the flowers are completely covered, or to the top of the jar. Oil options include Jojoba, Grapeseed, Olive, Sweet Almond etc.

Now put the lid on your jar and store in a dry, dark place for 4-5 weeks. You can occasionally shake the flowers around if you like. When the time is up, slowly strain the oil into a clean jar using a fine mesh strainer or cheese cloth.

Now your oil is ready to use! It can be added to salves, massage oils, facial oils, lotions or soap bars!

Happy harvesting.

/by