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Homemade Laundry Detergent

Save money, make your own laundry detergent!

We don’t mess around with laundry in this house, as I’m sure anyone who has kids, does yardwork, sweats, cooks, eats or…you know…experiences any aspect of everyday life can understand. For that reason, I was honestly hesitant to venture into making my own laundry detergent because I’m not a fan of wasting money on something that doesn’t work.  

Therefore, I settled on a formula that consisted of very few components, most of which I already had in my arsenal and had proven themselves as effective and efficient cleaners.

But enough about me, let’s get to why you’re here.

Ingredients

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: Just because an ingredient is organic or naturally occurring doesn’t necessarily mean it is non-toxic. No laundry detergent, homemade or store bought, should EVER be ingested, inhaled, or used topically. Always keep laundry detergent safely stored and out of reach of children or pets. While I’ve done my own research on all the components below, know that they are all powerful cleaning agents and it is each person’s responsibility to research for themselves and determine their comfort level when using these products in the home.

Borax: (not to be confused with the more abrasive Boric Acid) is a naturally occurring mineral called disodium tetraborate. Considered an extremely powerful cleaning agent, it is generally used in laundry to fight stains, whiten clothes, and reduce odor. It’s important to note that borax can lead to irritation of the skin if used topically and should never be ingested. It should always be diluted in water and rinsed properly from clothes to avoid irritation to the skin.

Washing soda: Also known as sodium carbonate, washing soda is strikingly similar to baking soda but should not be confused for one another.  Washing soda is used to soften the water, allowing the cleaning agents to properly lift dirt and other particles from clothes. As a double whammy, it also fights stains due to its low pH (alkaline substance). Like borax, it can cause irritation to the skin and should not be ingested.

Castile bar soap: Castile soap is a plant or vegetable-based soap also containing lye, making it an effective detergent. I like to use a bar of soap which is already scented with natural oils (either lavender, tea tree or rose) to add a hint of fragrance. You have the option to add a few drops of essential oils yourself, but beware adding essential oils to any powdered cleaners. It is amazingly easy to add too much oil and create unwanted clumps.

Pro Tip: Moisture is your enemy when it comes to storing powdered laundry detergent; it will create hard clumps that will not break down easily in your laundry load and will possibly leave white residue on your clothes. Once detergent has become clumpy, it is best to discard it. To avoid wasting your detergent, I strongly recommend storing it in an airtight container. Don’t scoop your detergent with wet hands or allow droplets of any liquid to enter the jar.

The Ratio

The glass jar pictured above has a 2 liter capacity. If you have a different size jar, pay attention to the ratio of the ingredients instead of the specific amounts.

3 cups borax (2 parts)

3 cups washing soda (2 parts)

1.5 cups grated castile soap (1 part)

The Process

Grated castile soap
  1. Grate your bar soap with the small grating option on a box grater. You can use the regular grater from your kitchen since the soap will wash right off.
  2. Measure and carefully add all ingredients to an air-tight jar. It is good practice to either wear gloves or immediately wash your hands well after mixing to avoid any skin irritation.
  3. Close the jar and shake the hell out of it; you obviously want all the ingredients to thoroughly mix. The grated soap can sometimes stick together so be sure to shake it well.
  4. That’s it! Store in a dry place near your laundry (away from children or pets)

To Use

Depending on the soil level, add between 3 tbsp- ¼ cup of laundry detergent to each load. The ingredients will work with any water temperature, though borax tends to work better with hot/ warm water. I tend to use cold water to save on energy but will use warm water on heavier or dirtier loads.

Happy cleaning!

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Sore Muscle Salve

I’ll go ahead and skip the fluff and backstory on why I wanted to share this recipe because I think every adult human can relate to at least one thing: muscle pain. Working, childcare, gardening, exercise, stress…. No matter the cause, we all know the feeling.

While I make no claims for chronic medical conditions, infections, or other serious ailments, the Sore Muscle Salve spelled out in this article is made from 100% natural materials that will do wonders for those aches and pains that go hand-in-hand with average, everyday life.

What’s Inside

  • Dandelion Infused Jojoba Oil: Dandelion flowers contain mild pain relieving and anti-inflammatory properties, while Jojoba oil is incredible for your skin.
Click Here to Make You Own
  • Arnica Oil: One of the best natural substances to use for muscle aches, bruises, and sprains, Arnica Oil is derived from an eastern European flower and is known to have powerful healing and anti-inflammatory properties when used topically.**
  • Eucalyptus Essential Oil: A commonly used essential oil for joint and muscle pain, including Arthritis and Carpel Tunnel Syndrome, Eucalyptus is a strong anti-inflammatory. It also provides an aromatherapy aspect by helping to clear the mind of stress and fogginess.
  • Coconut Oil: Used here mostly as a carrier, Coconut oil allows you to create a soft, smooth salve for easy application, while also moisturizing the skin.
  • Beeswax: A staple in salve making, beeswax is used to thicken the consistency of the salve, allowing you to create a more solid form in which to deliver the oils.

What Else You Need

  • Tin or glass container (3 fluid ounces for this recipe. You can adjust the quantity of ingredients for different sizes)
  • Small disposable plate (Optional)
  • Wax thermometer
  • Double Boiler

For more information on a Double Boiler and Wax Thermometer, CLICK HERE

The Process

  1. Melt 2 Tbsp of Coconut Oil, 2 Tbsp of Dandelion Jojoba Oil and 1 Tbsp of beeswax in your double boiler. Make sure all the wax has melted and give it a good swirl.
  2. Test the consistency of your salve (making sure it isn’t to hard or soft) by pouring a tiny amount onto your disposable plate. Wait a couple minutes for it to cool and rub a little with your finger to see if you like the consistency. If it’s too hard, add more Jojoba oil. If it’s too soft, add a couple more pellets of beeswax.  (You can skip this step if you don’t want to use a disposable plate, but don’t test on any surface that you wouldn’t want covered in wax).
  3. Once you have the right consistency, use your wax thermometer to test the temperature of your mixture. You will only want to add the Eucalyptus and Arnica Oil once the temp has dropped to about 130 degrees so they don’t burn off. Click here for more information on testing wax temperature.
  4. Once you hit 130 degrees, add 15 drops of Eucalyptus and 15 drops of Arnica oil and stir/swirl the mixture very well. This small bit of oil shouldn’t effect your consistency. You don’t want to reheat your mixture (to melt more beeswax) once you’ve added your essential oils, so be sure to check your consistency before this step.
  5. Place your tin onto the disposable plate (to catch any possible spills), and slowly pour the mixture to near the top of the tin, careful not to spill over.
  6. Allow the salve to cool for at least 30-60 mins before using.

To Use

Your Sore Muscle Salve is great to use everyday or multiple times a day!** Using the tips of your fingers, rub the salve onto your target areas and massage deeply into the muscles. There is no need to wash the salve off your skin; allow it to seep into your skin and into your muscle tissue. Added bonus, the Jojoba and Coconut Oil will leave your skin feeling soft and amazing!

I hope you love using it as much as I do, cheers!

*Arnica oil is not to be ingested, and should not be used to heal open cuts or sores.

**This recipe has not been reviewed by the FDA and should not be used in lieu of medical help for chronic or serious conditions. Make sure to consult with your doctor if you are pregnant, breastfeeding or have any other medical conditions. Don’t use if you are allergic to any of its ingredients.

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Herbal Facial Toner

It’s no secret that facial toner is a vastly beneficial component of any daily skin care routine. What you may not know is that it only requires a few simple ingredients to create an effective toner to clean and tighten the pours, remove remaining bacteria and reduce redness/inflammation.

All Hail Witch Hazel!

If you look at the ingredients list on any major toner, I’m willing to bet that the first two ingredients are water and witch hazel (or synthetic version of it). With those two things alone, you already have a powerful, inexpensive toner. Why? Witch hazel has been used for centuries to heal and purify the skin. It is a powerful anti-inflammatory (used for everything from under eye bags to hemorrhoids) and is a staple in natural medicine cabinets for its ability to gently disinfect and heal the skin. Witch hazel is also known to tighten your pores and balance pH levels, making it the perfect toner component.

Similar to essential oils, it is a good practice to dilute witch hazel with to ensure it isn’t too abrasive for your skin. Using distilled or purified water is a good option for this. Witch hazel is an astringent after all, which can lead to excessive drying if used every day. Though it’s fine to use full strength on bug bites or cuts, full strength on your face may be too harsh, especially if you have sensitive skin. See the recipe below for the ratio.

Make it Herbal

While witch hazel and water may be all that you need, other substances could be added to your toner for additional benefits. Just keep in mind, less is more. We use toners to help clear and tighten the skin; adding too many other ingredients may have the opposite effect, especially if you’re pairing your toner with a moisturizer.

Essential Oils

Depending on your type of skin, a few drops of essential oils into your toner could do wonders. Refer the chart below for the different benefits of some of the commonly used oils:

Herbal or Floral Water

Infused water is a great way to easily add different benefits and fragrances to your facial toner. When picking your infused water be sure to take note if something needs to be refrigerated. It can still be used in your toner, but you’ll have to make a trip to the fridge each time.

Homemade Rose Water

Orange Blossom Water: Hydrating, closes and tightens pores, soothes irritation.

Rose Water: Anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, reduces redness,

Cucumber Water: High in vitamins (B & C), soothing, Anti-inflammatory

Click here for a list of other options from Hello Glow 

The Recipe

Ok, so we’ve talked about your different options, now let’s bring it all together:

Ingredients:

  • 4- 6 oz Cosmetic Bottle
  • 2 oz Distilled Water
  • 2 oz Organic Witch Hazel
  • 2-3 Drops Essential Oils (optional)
  • And/or
  • 1 oz Infused Water (Optional) replace 1 oz of distilled water with infused water

Process:

  • Add all the ingredients into a measuring cup or other receptacle with a spout. Test your toner on the inside of your forearm to ensure it causes no irritation or discomfort. If it does, further dilute the mixture with distilled water.
  • Once you’re happy with your mixture, slowly pour the toner into your cosmetic bottle with a small funnel. Many reusable cosmetic bottles will come with a funnel but you can also use one for a flask.
  • Shake well before each use.
  • To use: pour a nickel to quarter size amount into a cotton round or reusable pad and apply to a clean, dry face.
  • The ingredients used will determine its shelf life. Witch Hazel and water alone can last up to 3 years, but infused water may have a shelf life of a month to a year.

Enjoy your all-natural, homemade beauty!

Disclaimer: This article is not meant to provide medical advice. Always discontinue use if any irritation occurs, and consult with your doctor with any questions or concerns on ingredients.

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Organic Candle Making

It’s amazing to think there was a time when candles weren’t just used to fill your room with a lovely aroma, but were actually quite necessary to light your home once the sun went down. The art of candle making was a quintessential part of our homesteading past for this very reason. These days, making candles may not hold the same necessity, but is still a creative way to produce a useful and therapeutic tool. The ingredients and instructions below are meant to make a 100% organic candle, but the process can work for a wide range of ingredients.

Before getting started, you’ll need to assemble your supplies:

  • Organic Soy Wax
  • Container for Candle OR Candle Mold
  • Natural Fiber Wick (Use a metal base if making a container candle)
  • Clothespin or Pencil (for wick placement)
  • Double Boiler (Small saucepan and pouring pot)
  • Wax Thermometer
  • Essential Oil for Aroma (Optional)
  • Natural Dye for Color (Optional)
  • Embellishments (Optional)

I’ve added a few notes on the supplies listed above to further clarify each item and provide alternative options:

Wax

Though there are many options to use for wax, I like using soy wax over paraffin wax because 100% vegan and easy to produce. It also has a nice, clean, white color making it a great canvas. Other wax options include beeswax, paraffin and gel wax. Using a different wax shouldn’t change the process or other ingredients. The amount of wax you will need is completely dependent on the size of container you use. Ill talk about containers below.

Natural Fiber Wick

These can be found at any hobby store. Though some synthetic options exist, I like using natural fiber to keep in line with our organic candle. You also have the option to use wood wicks, which look like thin flat reeds. They provide a great amount of light along with a nice crackling sound. It’s like having an indoor campfire.

Candle Container or Mold

The fun thing about making candles is you can make them out of so many things! Of course, you want to make sure your container can handle the heat of the candle (don’t use very thin glass or cheap plastic), but there are so many different options! Sometimes I like to just wander around Goodwill looking at different glasses/pottery for sale. Candle molds are also easy to find at hobby stores or online. Generally, they sit upside down and provide a hole in the bottom for the wick to go through. You can spray them first to make the candle pop out more easily, but I honestly don’t think that’s necessary. I find candles pop out just fine on their own.

Double Boiler

This may seem intimidating but it’s really quite simple. That said, just know that once you use an item for candle making, it is now ONLY to be used for candles because it’s exceedingly difficult to completely remove wax from a surface. I have a small saucepan and pouring pot that are dedicated to nothing but candles and other wax products like salves. Saucepans are obviously easy to find, but pouring pots can be found at hobby stores or online. To use a double boiler, fill the saucepan about ¼ of the way full with water. Then place the pouring pot into the center of the saucepan. This will create a ring of water around the pouring pot. Then turn on the stove to medium/low heat and allow the water to simmer. You want to make sure that the water does not come up to the top of the saucepan when it starts to simmer. If it does, reduce the heat or pour out a bit of the water.

Wax Thermometer

This is especially important!! Why? Because if you add your dyes and scents to the wax at too high a temperature, it will burn them off, leaving your candle with no smell or pretty color. You can use any type of cooking thermometer for this. I prefer a digital readout to ensure I know exactly the temp of the wax. As mentioned before, once you use a thermometer for melted wax, it is now ONLY used for wax.

Aroma/Color/Embellishments

I put these together because they are all optional. You can find plenty of different options for these items at a hobby store, or get creative and use different things from around your house.

–Aroma: I love using essential oils for the candle’s aroma because I can create my own unique blends of naturally derived scents. You could also use up old perfume or cologne, or purchase scents specifically made for candle making.

–Color: There are plenty of candle dyes available, but you can create color through items like processed flower petals or old makeup. Sometimes adding no dye at all looks good too.

–Embellishment: This is a physical item that is added to the candle to enhance its appearance. For example, you can add shells to the bottom of your glass container before adding blue, gel wax to make your candle look like the ocean, or add dried, crushed rose petals to the top rim of your candle to make it look a luxurious spa candle. Get creative!

Process

Phew, I know that was a lot of information, but it will come together quite beautifully.

  1. Heat your double boiler on the stove to medium/low heat and add your desired amount of wax. It will take a couple minutes for the wax to melt completely. You can stir the wax around with a wooden stick (chopsticks or clean twigs from outside will do) or just swirl the pouring pot with your hand (my preferred method).

2. Using your thermometer, heat the wax until it hits about 150 degrees. This will ensure that the wax has melted and mixed thoroughly before moving onto the next step.

3. Once your wax has hit 150 degrees, give it a good stir or swirl, and set aside to cool slightly.

4. Monitor the wax until it has cooled to 130 degrees, then add your fragrance and color dye. The amount added will completely depend on how strong you want the aroma and color. You can always add more, so start conservatively and continue to add little by little. Whatever the melted wax smells like is how your candle will smell while it’s burning.

5. When you’re happy with your wax, very slowly pour it into your container. You have the option to add the wick to the container first, but it never stays exactly in place, so I tend to just add after I’ve poured the wax. Use your clothespin to secure the wick in the middle of the candle, with the metal base of the wick resting on the bottom of the container.

6. If using a candle mold, you absolutely need to put the wick into your mold before pouring your wax. Make sure the wick comes well through the opening at the bottom, and up through the hole in the top. You can wrap the wick at the top around a pencil or chopstick to hold it in the center of your candle.

7. If you’re adding embellishments to the top of your container candle, wait until the wax is cool enough to see a light ring of hardened wax around the perimeter. You can then slowly drop your embellishments into place. They might sink slightly but should stay close to the surface. If they drop well below the surface, wait another minute or two before adding more. Avoid messing with the embellishments once you’ve placed them, it could disturb the wax finished surface.

Embellishments of dried lavender buds

8. Allow at least 4 hours for the candle to fully harden before cutting the wick or using the candle.

9. When ready, cut the wick off at about 1 cm above the surface of the wax.

You’re done! Enjoy your organic homemade candle!

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Dandelion Infused Oil

It’s the most wonderful time of year… Spring has sprung, the rain has come, and little yellow flowers are popping up all over the yard. That’s right, it’s time for the Dandelions.

Dandelions are among the lovely weeds that are not only edible, but extremely nutritious from root to flower. While the root and leaves can be used for a million different things, here we will focus on harvesting the flowers and infusing them into an oil to use topically (not meant for ingestion). Along with containing powerful antioxidants, dandelion flowers have anti-inflammatory and mild pain-relieving properties, making them great for massage oils or therapy salves.

First, its important to note that there are a few flowers and weeds that resemble Dandelions, so it’s imperative to be able to accurately identify them. Notice the shapes of the leaves and flowers in the picture below:

Did you know: the yellow flowers are the ones you want to pick but what about those white, wispy flowers that you blow on to make a wish? They are actually one and the same! The flowers start out being yellow, but will turn into the wispy wish makers once they’re ready to seed. Be sure to harvest the yellow flowers before they have gone to seed.

Ok, so now you’ve identified the correct plant, and the flowers to pick. Time to start harvesting. You will want to remove the full flower blossom from the stem, keeping the base of the flower intact. I like to place my fingers all the way around the flower (like an arcade claw game), and gently pull up. If part of them stem comes out with the flower, no worries. You’ll just need to go through and remove the stems before drying them.

Once you have all your flowers removed from their stems, it’s good practice to wash them of bugs and any other debris. Always be sure to pick flowers that are free from harsh pesticides. Avoid areas you’re unsure about; any possible chemicals could make their way into your oil. Once the flowers have been washed, I like to get them as dry as possible by using a salad spinner. The flowers will stay intact and most of the excess water will be removed. This will also help to speed up the dehydration process.

Now that you have clean, dry flowers, it’s time to dehydrate them. If you don’t have a legitimate dehydrator, this is a simple process that can be done a couple ways:

  1. Spread them out on a baking pan and place in direct sun for at least 2-3 days or until they have fully dried and become crispy. You will want to bring them in at night or if it becomes windy.
  2. Place flowers on a baking pan and put in the oven for 2-3 hours. You will want to use a VERY low temperature as to not burn them. I generally leave it at about 160 degrees. Shake the pan every 45 mins or so to loosen the flowers and move them around.

Once dried, your dandelion flowers will shrink to about 1/3 their original size. It’s important to keep this in mind while harvesting, depending on how much oil you want to make.

You can now pack down your dried flowers into a canning jar, filling it about 3/4th of the way full. Then pour your carrier oil of choice over the flowers, filling until the flowers are completely covered, or to the top of the jar. Oil options include Jojoba, Grapeseed, Olive, Sweet Almond etc.

Now put the lid on your jar and store in a dry, dark place for 4-5 weeks. You can occasionally shake the flowers around if you like. When the time is up, slowly strain the oil into a clean jar using a fine mesh strainer or cheese cloth.

Now your oil is ready to use! It can be added to salves, massage oils, facial oils, lotions or soap bars!

Happy harvesting.

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Composting 101

Composting: Breaking down organic materials to create nutrient rich plant food, while simultaneously reducing the amount of trash sent to landfills. It’s the epitome of upcycling!

Now I’ll be the first to admit, I was a little intimidated by composting at first. Talk of the special bins, wrong ratios, things you can’t compost etc…. I was so afraid of doing it wrong. Then I realized a few things that relieved the pressure and instilled a little confidence:

  1. Composting happens naturally all the time without you. That’s right folks, nature doesn’t really need our help.
  2. If an issue does arise with your compost (too wet, too dry, stinky etc) there is always time to adjust, and learn from your mistakes.
  3. You don’t need special equipment. Sure, certain bins or spinners may be beneficial, but nature doesn’t need expensive equipment to make compost and neither do you.

How to Compost

First of all, you’ll need a designated space to put your compost. I like to keep a small bin in my kitchen for scraps (this can be as simple as a large Tupperware), then empty that into a larger receptacle outside.

Regardless of the type of receptacle you choose for outside, find a spot that is level, has good drainage and preferably A LOT of sunlight. The hotter your compost gets, the quicker it breaks down. You also do not want water pooling anywhere near your bin or pile.

In terms of the type of receptacle, there are generally 3 main options for containing your compost: Spinners, bins and piles. I’ve included a chart that has a quick description, and pros/cons of each.

Once you’ve chosen a spot and a receptacle, its time to start your compost!

Compost requires 5 basic ingredients:

  • Green material
  • Brown material
  • Moisture
  • Air
  • Time

The ratio for green to brown material is generally 1:1, or exactly half and half.

I have a fairly simple system for keeping this ratio even. Every time I empty my kitchen scrap bin (mostly green material) into the main compost outside, I fill that same kitchen bin with a second load of dead leaves and twigs (Brown material). If I have extra leaves to put in the bin, I try to also collect cut grass….. The idea is to keep everything in balance. Since this method isn’t an exact science, you’ll want to keep an eye on your compost to make sure the ratio seems right. If you notice your compost is soggy or starting to smell, just add more brown material. If your compost seems very dry and is not breaking down very well, add more green material.

For moisture, most of what you need will come from the green material, but you may need to occasionally wet your compost with a hose. You want your mixture to appear wet, but not dripping wet. It’s also important to keep the pile from getting too wet from rain or pooling water.

Providing adequate air flow into your bin or pile is essential for proper decomposition. Many compost spinners/ bins you can buy already have small holes for aeration. Just make sure to leave these open if they have the option to close. For stationary compost bins and piles, it’s good practice to occasionally turn your pile with a rake or shovel to provide more air. The frequency you turn your pile will influence how quickly it breaks down (see below). It’s also helpful to poke holes into the compost to provide air channels.

The time it will take your pile to break down depends on different factors:

  • Specific contents of the pile: For example, cotton takes longer to break down than dead leaves. Also cutting everything into small pieces will help them breakdown faster.
  • The temperature outside: Compost in the heat of summer will break down more quickly than in the winter
  • How often it’s turned: Increasing air flow will break the pile down faster
  • Where it is located: If the pile sits in direct sun, the heat will help the compost break down

In general, if you turn your compost every other day and it is sitting in direct sun in the summer, it will only take a couple weeks to break down. If you turn your compost every other week in the winter, it’ll take closer to 2-3 months.

What NOT to compost

There’s a simple list of things that you generally do NOT want to compost:

  • Inorganic material (Plastic, synthetic fibers)
  • Meat/ Dairy products (to avoid rancid smell and rodents)
  • Grease or cooking oil
  • Waxy/glossy paper or cardboard
  • Manure from carnivores
  • Invasive weeds
  • Weeds with seeds sprouted
  • Diseased plant material (consult your local gardening center if you’re not sure)

When it’s Ready

You know your compost is ready to use when the pile has turned into a moist, crumbly and dark brown substance. If you squeeze a handful of it and just a little moisture drips out, it’s perfect.

You can either mix your compost with soil before you plant your garden, or use it to fertilize your current garden by pulling back any mulch and placing compost around the base of your plants, mixing in with your hands. Doing this will also deter bugs from reaching your plants. Place mulch back over the top to reduce moisture loss.

Happy gardening ya’ll!

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Custom Face Oil

Face oils are quickly gaining popularity as more and more people ditch their synthetic moisturizers and serums for a more natural alternative. Generally comprised of organic essentials oils, these concoctions address an array of skin care needs from acne to eczema. Naturally oily person? Don’t worry! Using the right face oil for your skin will make your face soft and supple, not oily!

With all the heightened interest around face oils, many new products have recently flooded the market. Although they have the potential to be amazing products, you could be paying a premium price for something you can easily create yourself. Not only is it cheaper to make your own, but you can tailor make your oil to address the specific needs for your unique skin. Added bonus: If you happen to be someone who already uses essential oils, you may already have most of your ingredients!

What you need:

  1. Container for your face oil; I recommend a dark dropper bottle. Darker bottles block too much light from entering, keeping your oil fresher longer. Using a dropper will allow you to more easily control the amount of oil used. You can find these bottles online or at a nearby apothecary.
  2.  Base or carrier oil. This will make up the majority of your volume. Since essential oils are so highly concentrated, it is not advised to apply them directly to the skin without some type of carrier oil. Listed below are three commonly oils, but there are certainly many more available. All carrier oils listed are non-comedogenic (won’t clog your pores) and are chock full of antioxidants (like vitamin E & C)
  3. Essential oils. While you can make any combination of oils under the sun, it’s important to keep any allergies or sensitivities in mind when choosing your players.

Carrier Oils

Grapeseed Oil: This is my personal favorite due to its very lightweight feel, quick absorption and abundance of skin benefits. Grapeseed oil contains linoleic acid (which is and Omega-6 fatty acid), known to protect the skin from harmful environmental factors while moisturizing and healing problem areas. It also contains Polyphenols which minimize fine lines and wrinkles. It is great for any type of skin, including sensitive skin.

Jojoba Oil: This powerhouse is actually a wax (not an oil) derived from plants. It’s especially great for oily skin because it is very lightweight and more closely resembles natural sebum.  Similar to Grapeseed oil, Jojoba is full of antioxidants and fights inflammation. It is also odorless and has a longer shelf life since it does not go rancid.

Sweet Almond: If you experience issues like Eczema, dark spots or under eye circles, this may be the option for you. Sweet Almond oil is very moisturizing and has an incredible effect on skin tone and coloration. Of all the carrier oils listed, it has the highest concentration of Vitamin E, which we all know is amazing for healing.

Essential Oils

There are so many essential oils out there that cover an array of unique benefits. While I won’t list every oil available, I’ve included many of the commonly used ones that have very well-known benefits. That said, I am not a doctor and am not providing any medical advice. I’m simply helping to spread the tribal knowledge that we’ve gained over years of using these amazing oils.

Essential Oils categorized 6 ways:

Anti-Aging: Full of antioxidants that fight free radicals in your skin

Fights Acne: Antimicrobial and or antiseptic that fight bacterial on the skin that can lead to acne

Anti-inflammatory: Reduces irritation and inflammation

Moisturizing vs. Reduces Oil= dry skin vs. oily skin

Reduces Redness: Helps with things like Rosacea or discoloration

Process

The process for making your face oil is quite simple. Depending on the size of your dropper bottle, add about 25ml of carrier oil to a glass or jar, then drop in your chosen essential oils. I recommend starting with only a few drops at a time and build from there. You will generally want around 10-15 drops total. If you want one oil stronger than another, simply adjust the ratio of oils added.

Be sure to stir well and test your oil on a small area of skin throughout the process. Once you’re happy with your oil, carefully pour it into your dark dropper bottle using a small funnel (like one for a flask). The bottles usually comes with a small funnel, but that is a good thing to check before purchasing.

To Use

A little will go a long way!

Apply 3-4 drops of oil to a clean face and neck. Lightly massage into the skin (avoiding the eye area) and allow it to sink in before applying makeup or any other face products.

Be sure to shake your bottle before each use, and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

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All About Soil

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Composting

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Eucalyptus Toilet Bomb

Have you ever used a toilet bomb? It’s like a bath bomb, but… you know… for cleaning the toilet!

These effervescent toilet bombs are an eco-friendly, non-toxic alternative to traditional toilet bowl cleansers (which are generally teeming with harsh, dangerous chemicals like bleach).

The brawny cleaning power of baking soda is certainly well known. Aside from being a commonly used deodorizer, baking soda is also a mildly abrasive alkaki, making it very effective at fighting grease and stains. Think about it, if it can be used to whiten our teeth, it can certainly whiten our bowls.

Along with baking soda, you only need a few more ingredients to make these power toilet bowl cleansers:

Ingredients:

  • Silicon Mold (can use a mold for small soap or candy)
  • ½ Cup Baking Soda
  • ¼ Cup Citric Acid
  • 15-20 Drops Eucalyptus Essential Oil*
  • Spray bottle of water

*Any essential oil (or mixture of oils) will do, so choose your own scents! Be careful not to add more than 20 drops total because it could affect the effervescence of the bomb.

Process:

  • Mix Baking Soda and Citric Acid in a large mixing bowl
  • Add Essential oil
  • Mix well with hands
  • Spray 2 spritz of water, continuing to mix with hands
  • Spritz water about 9-10 more times until the mixture clumps within your hand when squeezed. (Adding too much water after this point will affect the effervescence of the bomb).
  • Pack mixture tightly into each cell of the silicon mold. Be sure to push the mixture down as hard as you can to ensure it sticks together when dry.
  • Let the mold sit overnight, or at least 12 hours to fully dry/harden.
  • Once dry, each cell should easily pop out of the mold.
  • Store in an airtight container until ready to use

For extra cleaning power, first spray the toilet bowl with a vinegar based cleaner! Remember the science fair in Elementary School? The reaction between baking soda and vinegar will create an intensified chemical reaction!

Don’t worry, it’s perfectly safe.

Make your own vinegar cleaner!

*It’s important to note that while these bombs do not contain harsh chemicals, they could still cause discomfort if ingested. Please always keep any cleaning products out of the reach of children or pets.

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